Makeup application is more than just applying products. When we look in the mirror, we might see areas we want to adjust, and understanding the power of color and the weight it holds is key to achieving the desired effect. Whether it’s elongating smaller eyes or making it all about your lips, makeup placement is never random. The colors and textures you choose, and how and where you apply them, can either open up your features by adding lightness and fullness or add weight by amplifying, pushing back or pulling them in a specific direction.
The key to remember is this: the greater the contrast and the darker the color, the more weight and focus it adds, creating the illusion of depth, width, closeness, or density. Think of it like a seesaw tilting downward where the weight is concentrated. Darker tones, bold textures, and lush lashes can transform a feature, making it appear more pronounced—deeper, longer, or thicker. The more intense, solid, or shiny the texture, the more attention it commands, instantly highlighting that area. This also applies to face adornments like crystals, which reflect light and immediately draw the eye. On the flip side, lighter shades and textures create a softer, fuller, and more open effect.
Gaining weight isn’t something we typically welcome, but when it comes to makeup, it’s essential for creating balance. With a clear awareness of your unique facial features, you can use specific tones and finishes to redirect and sculpt them, resulting in the most flattering looks. Knowing how to place makeup to shift the direction of your features will inspire you to see beyond what’s already there.
Eye-dentify Your Shape
Our eyes are many different shapes and sizes that are unique to us, from almond and hooded to round, downturned, upturned and a multitude of combinations of these and more. No matter the shape, you can customize your makeup to not only enhance your eyes but also use color to subtly reshape or shift their direction. While there are endless looks to explore, I’ve selected a few examples that illustrate weight being used in different ways, paired with the best techniques for maximum impact. Love the look? Check out the product suggestions below to recreate it for yourself.
Weighing In On Length
The cat eye has been a timeless favorite for good reason—nothing embodies sleek and sexy quite like this classic shape. Its subtle femininity is both bold and elegant, and the long lines also make it ideal for close-set eyes. Whether you’re going for a natural or dramatic version, the secret lies in the perfect gradient of eyeshadow, starting with lighter or medium tones on the inner half and building depth with darker shades, like bronze or deep brown, toward the outer corners. Extending the shadow beyond the lash line enhances that seductive feline effect. To take it further, line the outer corners and waterline with darker eyeliner, or finish with faux lashes for extra drama. The more you layer, the more magnetic and elongated your eyes will appear.
Take inspiration from Olivia Wilde and Hailey Bieber—both nail the allure of the cat eye in their own way. In Olivia’s version, the weight is concentrated primarily on the outer eye area, with the rest of her face kept nude, which naturally lifts the gaze and creates the illusion of wider-set eyes. Our eyes instinctively follow the weight of the color. Adding a bit of brow definition amplifies the look, giving an instant eye lift.
LOVE OLIVIA’S EYE MAKEUP? TRY THESE…
Yves Saint Laurent Couture Mini Clutch Eyeshadow Palette in 710 Over Brun
A chic quad compact that features the perfect assortment of browns and nudes to compliment every face and offers unlimited ways to create magnificent sultry eyes. Infused with Moroccan Fig Cactus Oil, the color glides on flawlessly with just the slightest touch and lasts for hours.
Mac Cosmetics Colour Excess Gel Pencil Eyeliner
Deepen and define your eyes effortlessly with this richly pigmented waterproof gel pencil for the lids and waterline. Concentrate the color on those areas that you would like more strength.
Lilly Lashes Daydreamer Half Lash
These delicate faux lashes are reusable and require zero effort or mess, thanks to their clever self-adhesive strip and quick removal. They blend seamlessly with your own lashes and compliment any eye makeup look in seconds. Apply them from the center to the end of your eyelash for an elongated shape that is irresistible.
For Hailey’s more natural vibe, create a warm halo of bronze around the entire eye. Then, draw a sleek and delicate emerald green line on the top and bottom, staying as close to the lash base as possible, and finish with a precise wing at the outer corners. A few coats of mascara will give you that perfect, defined cat eye look. Note, for eyes that turn slightly up or down, blending in the opposite direction at the outer corners can create perfect balance.
LOVE HAILEY’S FELINE LOOK? GIVE THESE A TRY!
Victoria Beckham Beauty Satin Kajal Liner Longwear Waterproof Eyeliner in Olive
An exquisite rich green that elevates your eye makeup with a shimmering finish, gliding on effortlessly with each stroke. This shade is a great alternative to your go-to neutral pencil and its smudge-proof formula ensures your look stays flawless all day.
Tom Ford Eye Color Quad Eyeshadow Palette in Peach Dawn
This luxurious eyeshadow quad ignites your eyes with shades as captivating as a sunset. Use a single hue to add warmth or blend several for a fiery, smoky effect. With a range of matte to shimmering finishes, it’s sure to heat up any look you create
Tipping The Scale Inward
@anyamexico/Instagram
@gigihadid/Instagram
For wider-set eyes, the opposite technique works beautifully—if you want to bring your eyes closer together, focus on adding weight to the inner corners and middle of the lids to subtly pull them toward the nose. A strong metallic highlight instantly draws attention inward, as seen in this captivating shot of Gigi Hadid.
Alternatively, try using a deeper pencil or eyeshadow on the inner eye and crease, blending toward the middle and stopping at the outer corner. For a more sculpted effect, go back in with your brush and use the leftover product to build extra depth in those same areas. Anya Taylor-Joy’s makeup in this photo showcases this technique perfectly.
LOVE GIGI’S METALLIC HIGHLIGHT LOOK? TRY THIS!
Iconic London Glaze Dual-Ended Eyeshadow Crayon in Goddess
What’s better than a metallic gold shimmer shadow? One that gives you two easy ways to apply! On one side, a velvety pencil glides on like satin, while the other features a liquid formula that can be worn solo or layered for a stunning, lustrous finish.
WANT TO RECREATE ANYA’S LOOK? GIVE THIS A TRY!
Natasha Denona Xenon Eyeshadow Palette
Prepare to be obsessed with this stunning cool-toned palette, featuring 15 mesmerizing shades that span from the deepest, inky blacks and smoky grays to frosty pinks and icy whites. The textures are where the magic happens—matte, metallic, and dazzling wet-look finishes that invite you to play, layer, and create endless, show-stopping looks.
Lip Gravity
Zoe Kravitz owns this look! A bold lip immediately shifts the focus to the lower part of the face, effortlessly drawing attention away from everything above. In Zoe’s case, the lip color strikes the perfect balance with her defined brows. Bold lip colors are great for offsetting smaller eyes or a high forehead while also highlighting a bright smile. Pro tip: Darker matte shades create a fuller, more dramatic look, while glossy finishes add a touch of lightness.
LOVE RED LIPS? TRY THESE!
Violette_Fr Petal Bouche Matte Rose Petal Lipstick in Amour Fou
A year in the making, this velvety liquid color feels heavenly and was inspired by the soft touch of rose petals. Its dreamy, smooth formula offers buildable coverage, allowing you to shape and paint your lips into pillowy perfection.
Lisa Eldridge Beauty Rouge Experience Refillable Lipstick in 190 Bohemian Cherry
A decadent lip color that delivers a superior smoothing effect with a satin finish. The best part? It comes in a luxurious, cleverly designed refillable case, so you can easily replenish your favorite shades. And for an extra touch of chic, you can personalize the case with your etched initials. Now that’s elegance!
Jane Iredale ColorLuxe High Impact Lip Glaze
This gloss’s ultra-smooth application combined with highly pigmented colors and its megawatt shiny finish yields gorgeous results every time.
Anchoring Adornments
Photo by Jason Lloyd-Evans for Allure
Who doesn’t love a little glitter or sparkle? There’s something irresistible about the way crystals, metallics, and glitter catch the light, instantly drawing our attention. Though typically associated with lightness, their high-shine finish is what we focus on, making them an example of ‘weight.’ Clusters of crystals carry more weight than just two, and eyelids covered in solid glitter have far more impact than a few scattered flecks. Whether used as an accent or the star of your look, their shine will always steal the show.
CAN’T GET ENOUGH SPARKLE? TRY THESE!
Simhaze Beauty Eye Play Gem Sticker Pack
These dazzling, self-adhesive crystal strips are easy to apply wherever you want to add a little extra sparkle.
Danessa Myricks Beauty Infinite Chrome Flakes Multichrome Gel for Eyes & Face
Transform your makeup with these mesmerizing mega metallic multi-colored flakes that take any look to the next level. The water-based gel formula makes for smooth, easy application—whether you’re delicately tapping on a few flakes for a touch of sparkle or layering them for a dazzling, full-on jeweled effect. Their unique reflective finish catches the light from every angle, creating an eye-catching, otherworldly
Makeup Artist & Beauty Expert @robinschoenmakeup
Learn more about Robin’s talented work at RobinSchoenmakeup.com
Photo courtesy of : filterfamous.wordpress.com, @gigihadid, @anyamexico, Ulta, @ninapark, Jason Lloyd-Evans for Allure.com, Sephora
